Saturday, May 26, 2007

Soul Man

I took a couple of pairs of shoes to the local cobbler this week. I'm a big fan of owning a good shoe, and having it repaired as appropriate.

I was very pleasantly surprised by both the level of workmanship, and the price. I asked for a small rip to be repaired, and they not only fixed that hole, but relined and strengthened all three other sides of the pair of shoes at the same time. And they were shined to within an inch of their lives, too.

When I went to collect my shoes I had to wait a good ten minutes as the little man hunted through his collection of finished work. Each bag of shoes had a numbered ticket attached, but for some reason they were not sorted in any logical order. He inspected the ticket on each bag until he found the right one.

An interesting approach, but room for some improvement.

Monday, May 21, 2007

Food Glorious Food

Last Saturday we went to a street fair just outside the apartment. $40 bought us a ticket to the Taste Of Tribeca festival where 60 neighbourhood restaurants set up stalls to allow us punters to sample their food.

The proceeds from the entrance ticket went to local schools, and gave us the opportunity to have six "tastes" from whichever stands we chose. In between the light spring showers we wended our way from stall to stall to see what we liked the look of.

The more famous restaurants had long lines, so we deliberately picked the smaller venues. I had a fantastic pulled pork bun with barbecue sauce, smoked salmon, a country terrine, a wonderful lamb kebab, a ricotta cheesecake, and two empanadas from our local Argentian restaurant. Yum!

It was a busy event and as we negotiated the crowds we were entertained by live bands. My favourite was The Dueling Elvis's (who played alternate Presley and Costello covers). Another highlight of the event occurred when we went up to our local sushi restaurant's stand. We said hello, we were given heaps of food, and they refused to stamp our ticket.

Proof positive that you can inhabit a friendly neighbourhood in New York.

Thursday, May 17, 2007

White Room

I went to a book tour event tonight promoting Marco Pierre White's new biography. White was late and whilst we waited for his car to arrive we were entertained by none other than Mario Batali and Anthony Bourdain. They merrily swapped stories of White and their various experiences with him, and generally clowned around for the assembled crowd.

Bourdain and Batali were a hoot, and clearly enjoyed playing up to the audience. I've read a lot about both chefs and it was great to see them in the flesh.

When he finally arrived, White was something of a disappointment. He spoke quietly, looked at the floor, and seemed to be none too proud of his antics in the 80s. He kept reiterating that he regretted pursuing the Michelin stars so fervently, when he should really have been doing something that was more "worthwhile". He wouldn't even be drawn on the Ramsay reservation-book scandal.

As I stood by a shelf containing a "Highway to Heaven" box set, I wondered quite why he had bothered to turn up. At least he came out in favour of the freedom to eat foie gras, I suppose.

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Zeroes and Ones

I thought it was the longer words that might lose something in translation from English to American, so I was surprised when something short and simple caused me problems the other day.

In a meeting about a particular strategy I was working on I described a numeric parameter as ranging from "nought to ten". This drew confused looks from the rest of the table. I looked back at them, and realising that something was not being understood, I said "You know, one, two, three....". Suddenly there were moments of enlightenment in the room as people realised what I was trying to say.

Apparently the word "nought" is very rarely used here, and certainly not in the context of a range of numbers.

It would appear that I still have a lot to learn before I can claim to be fully bilingual.

Monday, May 14, 2007

State of Independence

We spent the weekend in Washington D.C.

Washington is a picture postcard perfect city. All the important sights are strung out along a large green corridor called The Mall, with The Capital Building at the one end, The Washington Memorial in the middle, and The Lincoln Memorial at the other end.

During our limited time there we managed to tick off most of the important things, noting that The White House is rather small, The Vietnam Veterans Memorial was altogether quite moving, and that the return capsule of Apollo 11 was really rather cramped.

It seemed like a fun town, and I'm looking forward to going back later in the year.

Wednesday, May 09, 2007

Loco in Acapulco

New York can do exceptional Mexican food pretty easily, something I didn't appreciate until I'd been here a little while and had tried a few places. London has a handful of people making an effort to bring this cuisine to the masses, but the results are generally pretty lacklustre.

I've always like chillies, and find the subtle roastings and liberal spikings in Mexican food pretty compelling.

The 5th May is an excuse for a bit of a party in New York. Cinco de Mayo is a national holiday in Mexico celebrating a local victory over the French in 1862, but due to New York's large Mexican population, the holiday is unofficially celebrated here, too.

So, last Saturday was a great excuse for some ceviche, fish tacos, tortilla soup and a few Coronas.

Muy bueno!

Saturday, May 05, 2007

Super Trouper

We live pretty close to New York's bustling Chinatown. It's about a 15 minute walk, and like stepping into another world.

The streets are busy twenty-four hours a day, people sell anything and everything from impromptu stalls, and the smell of food lingers in the air. I recently saw someone buying live crabs from one of the vendors. The unlucky crustaceans were unceremoniously placed into a paper bag with tongs, and the bag continued to wiggle as the lady carried it away. It would have made quite a sight on the subway.

One of my favourite things to order in Chinatown is the soup dumpling. Xiǎolóngbāo (as they are known in Mandarin) are delightful steamed buns with a mixture of meat and rich broth hidden within. At first they are a little tricky to eat: there's a high probability of injury as the hot liquid can have a tendency to squirt onto your lap. But once you've got the hang of it, they are a wonderful thing to eat: the combination of soup, meat and bun is fantastic.

I haven't worked out how they are made yet. I suppose they are the ship-in-a-bottle of the food world.

Wednesday, May 02, 2007

Sunset and Vine

I was at work a little later than usual today (partly due to my job, but more realistically due to the miniature remote controlled helicopter someone has recently brought into the office).

As I walked home up Broadway I was struck by how delightful some of the buildings looked as the sun was setting. The Woolworth Building was a particularly pleasing shade of orange, and even some of the plainer office blocks looked pretty.

We often see fantastic sunsets from the apartment window. Looking past the construction sites in the foreground you can see glorious oranges and reds as the sun disappears behind the Jersey skyline.

In some ways pollution can be a beautiful thing.

Sunday, April 29, 2007

Peace Train

I took my first proper US train ride this weekend. I've been on various trains in America: the Subway, commuter trains to Newark Airport and so on, but no proper long distance adventures.

There were a few things that struck me about the experience.

1. It was quite a slow ride, and the track was pretty bumpy. The train didn't get up to any major speed at all and the track was sometimes so squiggly that I nearly spilt my tea. So far not too dissimilar to the UK. But wait...

2. The train was very punctual, both in terms of departure and arrival. We're starting to see the differences...

3. It wasn't dirt cheap, but it certainly wasn't expensive.

4. You had to sign the top left of the ticket. And provide ID if required. I found this part quite strange until I was reminded of the obvious security threat as trains disappear into tunnels under the Hudson to reach New York.

5. The mainline stations are quite dramatic. You're probably aware of the grandeur of Grand Central Terminal, but Philadelphia's principal station is another art-deco wonder, too.

It looks like a reasonable way to travel short-ish distances. But I think anything over three hours and it's probably worth negotiating the perils of domestic flight instead.

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Go Now

Toilets in America are a world apart from what I am accustomed to in the UK.

The principle difference is the minimal use of walling material to enclose the particular hole in the ground. There's normally a good 12-18 inch gap at the bottom, and, for a man of my height, it's very easy to see over the top if I'm standing even vaguely straight.

There is also quite often a reasonable gap between the door and its frame, and a very flimsy lock to keep intruders from your privacy.

I've heard of a number of inventive solutions to the problem, leading from jamming toilet paper in the crack by the door, to walking into the trap with a pronounced stoop to protect your identity.

It all seems a little "public" for my liking. Bring back the hermetically sealed rooms of my youth.

Monday, April 23, 2007

It Only Takes a Minute

It rained pretty hard last Sunday. It was actually the second wettest day in New York since records began. Central Park saw a whole 7.5 inches that day.

It was quite a sight. We hunkered down in the apartment and whiled away the afternoon watching movies and surfing the Internet, occasionally looking out the window to marvel at the spectacle. There were times when you could hardly see the building across the road there was so much water in the air.

Whilst fiddling on the web I remembered we had run a little low on wine (always a bad place to be). I pointed my browser at the local wine store's website and found an intriguing mixed case of reds for a reasonable price. I clicked the links, tapped in my payment details and thought nothing more about it.

57 minutes later there was a knock at the door and a very wet man delivered our booze.

Now that's what I call service.

Sunday, April 15, 2007

Two by Two

Now that the great British pound is nudging two dollars, calculating how much things cost has become really easy. I still find it hard to think in dollar terms and perform the calculation frequently.

There are other factors of two in my financial life. I get paid twice a month, and I've noticed that a lot of things in America seem to be roughly half price (however it should be noted that rent definitely does not fall into this category).

So, I get paid in a currency that in numeric terms is twice the UK figure, I get paid twice as often, and consumer goods can often be considered half price.

I certainly feel better off, even if I'm probably not. God bless America.

Saturday, April 14, 2007

Taxman

Even though I spent only 42 days of the 2006 tax year resident in the United States, I still had to file a full tax return. Actually, I had to file two returns: one for Federal Tax, and the other for State and City Tax. Oh, and I'll have to submit a UK Tax return in due course as well.

Part of my relocation package gives me the "benefit" of having my tax return prepared by one of the Big Four consultancies. This involved them sending me a letter requesting that I fill in all my relevant information on their specially developed website, and then they would do the rest.

I dutifully did this by the deadline they had imposed and then everything went quiet for about six weeks. Three working days before the Internal Revenue Service deadline I received a FedEx package with my completed return, all ready for me to sign and dispatch.

I noted a few things:
  • I wasn't convinced that the numbers were correct. It's too late to delay sending the forms back, but I may have to file an amendment after the fact.
  • Given the very tight timescales, what would have happened if I was travelling in the days before the 17 April deadline?
  • Best of all, the boxes I filled out on the website seemed to map almost exactly one-to-one to the boxes on the form!

It would appear that tax does indeed have to be taxing.

Thursday, April 12, 2007

King Size

I had a very odd experience the other day.

I received a letter from the UK. When I opened it and looked at the piece of paper inside I thought to myself, "My, what an ugly shape and size that piece of paper is."

It was an A4 sheet: something I had previously thought was rather aesthetic.

Constant exposure to US Letter paper has made me grow quite fond of its slightly shorter and fatter aspect. It stacks well, fits easily into my bag, and seems just a little more... I don't know... sturdy.

Which is of course complete nonsense. Any well read person will tell you that the ratio of the sides of a sheet of humble A4 is 1 : √2, meaning that when you fold it in half it retains exactly same aspect ratio (hence A3, A5 etc). Altogether more pleasing to the human eye.

At least I still think US Legal remains much more unpleasant that foolscap.

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Leaving on a Jet Plane

We took a flight last weekend from New York's domestic airport, La Guardia.

The car we booked from TriBeCa to the airport was a pleasant enough ride, and cost a remarkably cheap amount. However, as soon as we checked in and went airside it became apparent how desolate the airport really was.

The departure gates were slung out along a long, lonely corridor, and when it was announced that the flight was delayed by an hour we were faced with eating chicken fingers and mozzarella sticks at a crappy sports bar as there was nothing else even vaguely edible in sight.

Once we were herded onto the flight the food had to be paid for, and the folk in front took great delight in reclining their seats into my knees.

Domestic flights in the US are not a pleasant experience.

And to cap it all, we returned from 90F Miami to be faced by a holding pattern over New York due to none other than snow showers.

Oooof.

Saturday, March 31, 2007

Hit Me Baby One More Time

Bars in New York are great places.

I'm used to regulated drinking hours in London. After many years of practice my body is perfectly tuned to the booze stopping at 11pm. New York's bars are typically open until 4am. On a school night. This has already led to a few errors of judgement regarding intake.

Beer costs about the same as London, and cocktails are about half price. You also have to factor in the dollar-per-drink tipping culture. It's coming a lot more naturally to me now, and they make it much easier for you by giving your $10 change as $5 and five $1 bills. Easy.

There is also the almost industry standard acceptance of the "tab". It's so much more civilised to pay for your evening's entertainment at the end of the night without having to leave a credit card as security. It leads to a much more social experience - that extra level of trust making you feel more welcome, perhaps.

We popped into the bar at a local restaurant last night on the way home from dinner. We had a glass of champagne and a few oysters, followed by a cocktail. Just as we were thinking about getting the bill the barman presented us with a round of drinks "on the house". We hadn't been there that long, and we certainly hadn't spent that much money.

Whilst not exactly commonplace, it seems to happen reasonably regularly. If you invest in a place, the tips seem to come back as free drinks. And it's precisely that kind of relationship with an establishment that makes you leave feeling that you had a great time, and already planning your next trip back.

I could get used to this.

Monday, March 26, 2007

Bang Bang

I've always been a fan of a well cooked sausage.

America does not appear to take the humble banger too seriously. The hot-dog is an abomination.

I bought half a dozen chipolatas from Myers of Keswick in the West Village yesterday and have been looking forward to them all day. I just cooked them to a pleasant sticky-burnt finish and wolfed them down with some well-dressed salad and a spot of cous-cous.

There is a corner of New York that is forever England.

Sunday, March 25, 2007

Keep on Running

Some of you may remember that I took up jogging for a few months last year. It felt good whilst I kept it up, it's just that it got cold in London, and I lost the willpower.

It was quite temperate in New York today, and I decided to dust off the running shoes once again.

I took it particularly easy, so as not to scare my body too much, and ended up taking a relatively straightforward two mile jog alongside the Hudson River. Two miles of uninterrupted running with a stunning view of Manhattan's skyline. Quite inspiring.

I had New York's finest runners for company - someone simultaneously giving their dog a workout, old people barely moving yet dressed in head to toe sports equipment, and a lady noticeable for her outsized Coco Chanel sunglasses.

I've clearly got some way to go.

Friday, March 23, 2007

Fixing a Hole

I went to bed last night at the slightly embarrassing hour of 10pm. I wasn't feeling so good, and it had already been quite a long week at work.

As I finished with the current issue of Timeout New York and switched off the light, a tremendous noise started from the street below. I put up with it for a few minutes, hoping it would go away, before I padded over to the window to see what was going on.

Turns out that someone had decided that the middle of the night on a Thursday was the best time to dig up a major part of the street. Obviously this makes some kind of sense it terms of traffic density, but makes absolutely no sense in terms of people who need sleep!

They moved in the serious heavy lifting equipment a little later on, before finally taking a perverse delight in dropping large iron plates over the holes they had dug, from what seemed to be a great height.

It was all over by about 4am, but by then the night was pretty much at a loss.

Wednesday, March 21, 2007

Licence to Ill

When I first arrived in New York City I got pretty sick. It was just like being back at university and it took my puny little body a month or two to get the hang of all those new foreign germs. My second bout of illness was particularly fierce, with a cough that seemed to last about three weeks.

I thought I was over it, immune to all the city had to offer.

No.

I'm currently nursing another bout of congestion and it's all getting rather tedious.

I guess if I move a few more times I'll be so resilient I'll live for ever.